Glacier Chic

1.  Start with a good base layer - LL Bean midweight merino wool pants and top are super soft and do nice double duty as winter jammies when you are at home.

2.  Then, if you are like me and afraid of freezing to death in a crevasse, a wool turtleneck, a sweater, a North Face fleece jacket and pants, and a Gortex North Face parka.  You'll know you have enough on once you can't bring your arms down to your sides easily.  Or when you fall over and bounce back up.  

3.  Now for some accessories - about twelve feet of woolen scarf (bought in Iceland, naturally) wrapped tightly around neck and face.  Leave room for eyes.  (Leaned through experience.)  Thick hat and gloves, shearling boots with lug sole and two pairs of socks.

4.  And now for the technical equipment:  Crampons (strapped to boots), ice pick (held rakishly askew - not recommended);  oh, yeah -- and a nice purse.  In this case, my Chanel WOC because it's my lightest and sportiest.  Ha.  But it's pretty true actually, so there you have it.  (Karl, if you are reading this, feel free to send me some more sample "gear" to test in other adventure-like settings.  It's a hassle, but I'd do it for you.)

Because you can put a girl on a glacier, but you can't take the girl out of me!

Ice, Ice Baby

So anyway, last weekend, we went to Iceland.  If you are like most of our friends, you're thinking "Huh?"  Iceland doesn't appear on the top of most people's travel lists - frankly it wasn't at the top of ours until we started reading up on it.  

At only about a five hour flight from New York, it's a convenient destination for Northern Lights hunters - the primary reason we decided to go as viewing the Northern Lights is on our bucket list.  (2012 is supposed to be a stellar year for viewing due to higher solar activity.)

We spent four days in and around Reykjavik - just about the right time for our first visit - yup, that's right, definitely planning a second visit.  And though we didn't see a single Northern Light, I'm not a bit disappointed as there was so much more to do and enjoy.



Reykjavik City Tour


The city is small and compact, perfect for exploring on foot.  There are a lot of interesting public sculptures, dramatic views of the surrounding mountain peaks and harbor, and the clean lines of Nordic architecture to take in.

National Museum of Iceland
This museum was a pleasure to explore - so well-organized and accessible to attendees not well-versed in Icelandic history (that would be me).  No surprise it won a "Best European Museum" award.  It takes you from the founding of the first settlements to modern day - and even includes a Bjork record of course.  My favorite item in the collection is the National Dress Costume - skautbúningur.  Designed by an Icelandic painter, it is a great example of how a single garment can act as a catalyst and symbol for national cultural identity. 

Source: National Museum of Iceland

Of course there are plenty more museums and city attractions to explore, but let's skip to the total wow factor - Icelandic mother nature.  There are glaciers, volcanoes, thermal pools, waterfalls, misty afternoons and star filled skies which will take your breath away.  

Apparently there is treasure hidden just beyond the falls...

Glacier AND a rainbow!  What does it mean?!?!

This is the volcano Eyjafjallajökull, whose eruption in 2010 grounded me in Paris.  I have to admit I doubt this is the actual volcano - though the sign pointed to it, this doesn't look so menacing.  Maybe the real volcano is behind it??

The Blue Lagoon - just as neat as it looks and the water makes your skin so soft!  NB: It is worthwhile signing up for the Exclusive Suite changing room unless public nudity is your thing (it isn't mine).

Last but not least, food and shopping...  I can say with confidence one of the best meals I have ever had - EVER - was at The Fish Market.  I was worried it was over-rated but not so.  The young chef Hrefna Soetran is brilliant.  Try their tasting menu for the best overview of her creative dishes at a great value. 

Salted cod with cashews, celery and cherry sauce -  an unbelievable combination!

  
Besides their love of seafood, Icelanders also have a passion for hot dogs.  Yes, it shouldn't make sense,  but they are so good.  We went to the famous local Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur hot dog stand - look for the long line of hungry people looking like they are about to start a mosh pit (yes, that crowded and that good).  We asked for the works, which came with a variety of sauces (mustard, ketchup and remoulade all in unexpected colors) and crispy onions.  Awesome.

As for the shopping, this is THE place to get your hand knit wool sweaters and other accouterments.  Make sure to go to the Icelandic Handknitting Association stores - there you will be guaranteed locally made wool and make.  Below is an example of their lovely work.

Source:  Handknitting Assoc. of Iceland

I would show you what I purchased but - and I am still in a little disbelief - it is still getting made for me (!!!) and will arrive in about a month.  See, I wanted a dress but they didn't have quite the right color combination in the shop.  So the kind ladies running the store took me to the back counter area and plunked me before a wall of wools and told me to have my pick.  I chose grey, olive, brown and taupe, and with those instructions, someone is currently knitting me a dress I will happily show you in a few weeks time. 


Tomorrow, join me for tips on what to wear on a glacier.  :)