I haven't posted in such a long time - really there is no excuse other than the normal traveling and holiday craziness - oops! It's been a few weeks since we returned from Buenos Aires and I've been busy with unpacking, holiday preparations and packing for the next trip (more on that one later).
But now, let me just get down to business and share with you the highlights from our lovely and delicious trip to Buenos Aires.
Having never been to Argentina before, we decided to hire a tour guide and car and driver for the first couple days we were there. This was a great way to see the city and surrounding environs in a stress-free way, and learn more about the local history and culture first-hand from an expert. (Interestingly enough, our tour guide was also a conspiracy theorist, so in addition to the typical information, we also received a heaping dose of stories about Masonic power struggles, symbolism and secret society world orders. It's interesting to see what filters people bring with them - makes me wonder what mine is. LOL!)
The first thing that struck me about the city was the architecture. I had heard Buenos Aires was called the "Paris of Latin America,"and it seemed like a fair statement - sometimes I felt like I could be strolling down Haussmann, with the style of balconies above and cafes below. I'm no architectural expert, but it left me with this constant feeling of deja vu.
But besides Paris, there was a fair amount of liberal pull from many different architectural styles -- all consistently elaborate and monumental. It's no surprise considering that Argentina was one of the wealthiest nations at the turn of the previous century; it's clear much of that wealth went into building and decorating impressive structures.
Now, for a mini-tour of the city!
Here is El Congreso, where Argentina's parliament resides. The dome is inspired by the US Capitol Building.
Up from Congreso on Avenida del Mayo is the old historical district, which has quite a bit to see and visit. Here is the Metropolitan Cathedral, which is very Greek inspired.
Inside, the resting place of one of Argentina's founding fathers Jose de San Martin, looks a bit like Napoleon's tomb to me (sorry for the poor lighting).
On the opposite corner, is the Cabildo, the original seat of government, in a very Spanish colonial style:
Across the Plaza de Mayo is the Casa Rosada, the Argentinian equivalent of the White House. There are a couple theories of why it's pink (one has to do with political parties coming to terms, the other is about cow's blood, I'll let you choose).
Of course this is the famous Evita balcony. On weekends they even let tourists stand up there and presumably act out Madonna's scene (and yes, we did watch the movie as part of our pre-trip research!) - I declined this opportunity to finish up some shopping but to each his or her own.
And a look back across the Plaza de Mayo, which is in the center of it all. This is where mothers of individuals lost in the Dirty War still come together to protest and demand answers for their children. If you don't know anything about the Dirty War, I highly recommend reading "The Little School" by Alicia Partnoy. This is a part of recent world history everyone should know about.
On a brighter note, one of the loveliest things about our trip was that we happened to arrive during peak Jacaranda blooming season. Jacarandas are those purple blossomed trees that rain down purple-snow petals on the streets. I just couldn't get enough!
Here is a statue of Don Quixote on one side.
Looking back towards the Obelisk:
Here is Calle de Florida, the main pedestrian shopping street.
It's filled with shopping galleries which remind me of Brussels and Paris.
Below are some shots from the old Little Italy part of town is called El Caminito, famous for it's brightly colored buildings built from scavenged tin and other materials from ships coming into port. It also accounts for the bright colors - the paint was often leftover bits and pots used to paint ship hulls. It's a very touristy part of town but well-worth a visit.
Nearer to our hotel, the neighborhood of Recoleta houses the famous cemetery and next-door colonial church, Claustros de Pilar. In fact the whole neighborhood was named for this area, which once housed cloistered monks.
The altar and interior decorations almost have a Bavarian gothic feel...
Of course most people come to see just the cemetery, to visit the famous and beautiful tombs and see where Evita Peron was buried. I'm not much of a cemetery tourist, but as it's one of the city's main attractions we did have a visit. The designs on many were indeed quite impressive.
Here is Evita's resting place:
The cemetery is inhabited by stray cats, which are fed by a society of cat lovers (kind of like in Rome).
Back to architecture highlights - Palacio Barolo is an Art Noveau structure built by an Italian where every floor corresponds to a section of Dante's Inferno (Hell on the ground floor all the way to salvation at the top). It was unexpectedly closed when we visited, so all we were able to see where the gargoyles illustrating Hell in the lobby.
Nearby, the famous Cafe Tortoni could be torn out of a Budapest or Vienna tour book. This is where the Argentinian literati met for coffee and conversation and now is more commonly filled with tourists like us...
Speaking of cafes, one of my favorites was right near our hotel. Cafe La Biela is where we spent many an afternoon sipping a cafe con leche or icy cold beer. It sits in the shade of a 200 year old gum tree.
The gum tree is as old as the surrounding buildings and just as ornate.
Some Things to See and Do
- Congreso
- Avenida de Julio 9
- Obelisco
- Plaza de Mayo (and Asociacion Madres de Plaza de Mayo)
- Cabildo
- Casa Rodada
- Metropolitan Cathedral
- Caminito
- Cafe Tortoni
- Palacio Barolo
- Recoleta Cemetery
- Claustros de Pilar
- Cafe La Biela
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